Saint Petersburg: The cultural and historic mecca of Russia

From the moment you arrive in Saint Petersburg, the culture and history seep from the wide-lined streets and stunning architecture. Where Moscow was drab and dreary, Saint Petersburg brought light and shade in a warm, welcoming, upbeat hug.

Saint Petersburg, formerly known as Petrograd (1914-1924) and later Leningrad (1924-1991), is the second-largest city in Russia after Moscow and the fourth-most populous city in Europe. The city was founded by Tsar Peter the Great on the site of a captured Swedish fortress and named after the apostle Saint Peter. Associated with the birth of the Russian Empire, it served as the capital of the Tsardom of Russia and the subsequent Russian Empire from 1713 to 1918 (being replaced by Moscow for a short time between 1728 and 1730). After the October Revolution in 1917, the Bolsheviks moved their capital to Moscow.

Nevsky Prospect

Walking out onto Nevsky Prospect for the first time, you’re unsure whether to stop at one of the many churches or wander down a side road to stand at the side of a partly-frozen canal. A large sign that reminded me of home screamed from the top of distinctly Russian architecture. And a large chocolate-covered man beckoned me into a dessert mecca. The avenue, originally designed as the road to the ancient capital of Novgorod, now runs directly through the centre of the city and is lined with some of Saint Petersburg’s most impressive buildings. It is named after Alexander Yaroslavich, prince of Novgorod and Vladimir, nicknamed Nevksy after having beaten the Swedes in the Battle of the Neva in 1240.

In Ostrovsky Square, there’s a statue dedicated to Catherine the Great, Empress of Russia from 1762 to 1796. Catherine was venerated in St Petersburg for her efforts to improve life and education, and her statue is appropriately positioned in a small square lined on three sides by the Anichkov Palace, Alexandrinksy Drama Theatre and the Russian National Library. Around her feet, you can usually wander around the chess, backgammon, and mah-jong players spread out amongst the square.

Further along the street is Gostiny Dvor, the city’s oldest shopping centre and one of the first shopping arcades in the world. The Russian equivalent of an Eastern bazaar, a ‘Gostiny Dvor’ (Guests Court), was once a feature of all large Russian towns. The complex is over a kilometre long and covers an area of 53,000 m2. Originally a series of over 100 market stores, it was increased during the 20th century to over 178 shops and ten indoor streets. By the middle of the 20th century, it had lost its popularity and the inner walls were demolished to turn it into a modern-day shopping mall.

Next up was Singer House and Kazan Cathedral. Singer House, now the House of Books, is one of the largest bookstores in Europe. Constructed in the Art Nouveau style in 1902-1904, it was originally the headquarters of the Singer House, known for its sowing machines and for making uniforms for the Russian Army. The architecture of this building is simply divine and a perfect example of the colours evident across the city.

In front of Singer House is the Kazan Cathedral. The main cathedral and seat of the Orthodox Bishop of St Petersburg, this Neoclassical cathedral was built following the model of St Peter’s Basilica in Rome and named after the icon of Our Lady of Kazan. Also called Mother of God of Kazan, it is a holy icon that represents the Virgin Mary as the protector and patroness of the city of Kazan. According to legend, it was originally acquired from Constantinople, lost in 1438 and miraculously recovered over 140 years later in 1579. It is believed that Peter the Great ordered the copy to be brought to Saint Petersburg to protect both Russia and the Romanov dynasty. In 1812, one year after the cathedral was consecrated, many believe that prayers directed to the icon from then Commander-in-Chief Mikhail Kutuzov aided the victory over Napoleon during the Franco-Russian war. The cathedral consists of 96 columns that overlook the avenue.

The last stop on our walk through the city was Palace Square, home of the Hermitage and the Alexander Column, and another ice skating rink. The Hermitage is one of the world’s most famous art and culture museums. It was founded in 1764 when Empress Catherine the Great acquired a collection of paintings from the Berlin merchant Johann Ernst Gotzkowsky. Now comprising over 3 million items, the collections occupy a large complex of six historic buildings, including the Winter Palace (a former residence of Russian emperors), the Small Hermitage, the Old Hermitage, the New Hermitage and the Hermitage Theatre, all commissioned by Catherine the Great as her collection grew in size.

The Alexander Column, the tallest monument column in the world, was added to the square in 1834 to celebrate the victory over Napoleon. It is named for Emperor Alexander I, who reigned from 1801 to 1825.

The Hermitage was closed by the time we arrived, so I planned to return the next day. By this stage, my fellow Trans-Siberian travellers had continued on their travels, so after a quick ice skate, I consulted the trusty Lonely Planet guide and headed off to a highly recommended Russian pub on my own for some dinner. As I looked around at the empty tables, it soon became obvious that the guide was a little out-of-date. Noticing that one of the few guests was studying the same version of the Lonely Planet Guide, we started laughing and decided to join forces for the evening. He was a tourist from Norway, visiting Russia for the first time.

After sharing a few travel stories, we headed outside to make our way home to our respective hotels. Lo and behold, as I looked upwards, snowflakes began to fall, and I started celebrating the first time I had ever been out during a snowfall. At first, extremely surprised, my new Norwegian friend reacted quickly and threw a solidly made snowball, hitting me in the face. The fight was on. Well aware I was likely to lose (I was at a severe disadvantage given it was my first snowball fight), we ran through the streets making and throwing snowballs until, exhausted, one of us hit a car parked on the side of the street, setting off the car alarm. Laughing, we retired for the evening but had already made plans to meet up the next day to go through the Hermitage.

The Hermitage exhibition was incredible. Not just one of the best art collections in the world, I also enjoyed travelling through the complex and looking at the architectural style of the different buildings.

Finally leaving the Hermitage, I farewelled my new Norwegian friend as he continued his travels and stopped in at St Isaac’s Cathedral before returning to the hotel.

St Isaac’s Cathedral

St Isaac’s Cathedral is a stunning Russian Orthodox Church, commissioned by Tsar Alexandar I and dedicated to Saint Isaac, a patron saint of Peter the Great. For a short period of time, before it shifted to the Kazan Cathedral, the cathedral was the seat of the Orthodox Bishop of Saint Petersburg.

Peter and Paul Cathedral

The third and final day saw a further step back in time to visit the Peter and Paul Fortress and Cathedral, the original citadel of Saint Petersburg. Constructed shortly after Peter the Great founded Saint Petersburg, the Cathedral within the Fortress was the city’s main church and is the burial and resting place of almost all the Russian Tsars (including Catherine the Great). The Cathedral is dedicated to Saints Peter and Paul, the patron saints of the fortress and is now a museum.

Romeo and Juliet at the Mariinsky Theatre

On my final evening in Saint Petersburg and Russia, I treated myself to a viewing of Romeo and Juliet at the Mariinsky Theatre. I enjoyed this performance substantially more than Giselle; the theatre, too, was almost as stunning. It was a fitting end to my time in Russia, as I fell asleep to dreams of dancing for the Russian ballet, preparing to fly out to Latvia and then Ireland for the second to last leg of my trip.